Forum Title: Water Damage in Basement from Upstairs Door
I've got soft drywall and mold developing on window sill in a basement window, directly under a single exterior door upstairs. I removed teh drywall from above the windo to reveal a 2x10 'lintel' (is that the right term. The lintel is damp, and areas of it are black (black mold??). Regardless, I think the culprit is the door upsairs has been leaking for some time. I did apply some caulk to the door sill a while back, but this did not work. The door is surrounded by siding, so difficult for me to see what is behind that. There apears to be a drip edge on the botto outside of the sill too, where I previously caulked tto, but it all looks rather a mess. I think my first task is to clean up the mold, then address the leaking door, then repair my basement wall. I am looking for help/tips on making sure my door is seales in all the right places. Do I need to remove siding to do this, or should I be able to remove and re-caulk the mess around the sill. In case it matters, there is no leak apparent from the door on the level it is on. If there was, it was a the bottom only, behind the sill. It is an old door. Thanks Nubi
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: MYRTLE ROBBINS (Eau Claire, WI), 01/16/2019

I use a sharp chisel that is 1/2 wide (must be close to brand new) and use it like a scraper. If you turn the beveled edge of the chisel away from you, and hold it almost perpendicular to the 2-faced tape (or leaning toward you just a little) and then pull the chisel toward you while keeping the angle of the chisel at the same angle as you scrape and a lot of downward pressure, it will take off 99% of it. Usually cleaning most of it off is sufficient to apply the new tape. I dislike using cleaners because the solvents will prevent the new tape from sticking. But if you were to use a solvent, I'd recommend 3M adhesive remover in a spray can (often handled by automotive paint stores, sometimes at parts stores). Hopefully your tape is the exact thickness as the original tape... if it isn't there will be problems when you put the vinyl glazing strips back on- they will either be too loose or too tight if the thickness of the tape is not the same.

- MATTIE REEVES (Fort Worth, TX), 02/18/2019

it is vinyl siding. The siding butts upto the door and there appears to be the required J trim all around the door frame. Like I said, there is a 'drip edge' made of vinyl at the outer edge of the sill. The door sill (is sill the right term or is it footplate) does not overhang the exterior siding by very much, if a all. Could this be an issue? Wish I could diagram it out. All loks a bit ad hoc near the bottom, I have to say. I have a feeling there is either a leak in this drip edge, or water is somehow trailing in underneith it. Stupid question time, but how do I remove siding without breaking it? It's something I have never done before. Do I start at the top of the door, or at the bottom?

- BILLY DIAZ (St. Louis Park, MN), 02/20/2019

I have picture of my door and siding, but not sure how to attach them to the thread. I found the length of siding directly under my exterior door is quite severely buckled. Not visbily, but when I manipulate it by hand. Almost like it is not seated, or just poorly installed. The rest of my siding on the house, if I push with my finger, gives about an inch to the underlaying wall. The siding right under the door, and over my offending leaky moldy window gives about 2 inches, and waffles (if you know what I mean) back and forth. Not tight like the other siding. Could this be my culprit? How do I fix it? Why would the siding buckle lke that? Too long on the ends? Not clipped in or seated right? Need to get that siding tool, after reading some other threads. Nubi

- HECTOR BECK (Louisville, KY), 02/06/2019

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